Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus oblongus)

FreshwaterCyprinidae Familypeacefulbeginner Care
Siamese Algae Eater

Quick Answer

Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus oblongus) is a peaceful, omnivorous cyprinid from Southeast Asia famous for being one of the few aquarium fish that reliably eats black beard algae. It reaches 6 inches (15.2 cm) and requires a minimum 30 gallon (113 liter) aquarium with pH 6.5 to 8.0 and temperature 68 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 28 degrees Celsius). Best kept singly or in groups of 5 or more with a tight-fitting lid.

Lifespan 10 years
Max Size 6 in (15.2 cm)
Difficulty beginner
Diet Omnivore

Quick Facts

Scientific Name Crossocheilus oblongus
Common Names Siamese Algae Eater
Family Cyprinidae
Genus Crossocheilus
Type Freshwater
Temperament peaceful
Care Difficulty beginner
Lifespan 10 years
Maximum Size Up to 6 in (15 cm)
Diet Omnivore
Temperature 68–82°F (20–28°C)
pH 6.5–8
Hardness 5–20 dGH
Minimum Size 30 gallons

Key Takeaways

  • One of the very few fish that reliably eats black beard algae (BBA).
  • True SAE has a black stripe extending into the tail with ragged edges and clear fins.
  • Reaches 6 inches (15.2 cm); requires 30 gallons (113 L) minimum, 55 gallons (208 L) for groups.
  • Underdeveloped swim bladder causes angled resting on substrate; this is normal.
  • Adults lose interest in algae if overfed with commercial foods.
  • Tight-fitting lid is mandatory; notorious jumpers.

Overview

Taxonomy and Classification

Siamese Algae Eater, scientifically known as Crossocheilus oblongus, belongs to the family Cyprinidae, subfamily Labeoninae, within the order Cypriniformes. The species was described by Valenciennes in 1842 from specimens collected in Southeast Asia. For decades, the aquarium trade used the name Crossocheilus siamensis, but modern taxonomic revision has established C. oblongus as the correct scientific name for the true Siamese Algae Eater. Additional species including C. langei and C. atrilimes have been sold interchangeably under the same common name, causing widespread confusion.

The common name derives from the species' native range in Siam, the former name for Thailand, and its remarkable appetite for algae. It is also known as the SAE, True SAE, or BBA Destroyer in the planted aquarium community. The genus Crossocheilus contains multiple similar-looking species, which contributes to the persistent misidentification problem in the aquarium trade.

Natural Distribution and Habitat

The Siamese Algae Eater is native to Southeast Asia, specifically the Chao Phraya and Mekong river basins, as well as the Malay Peninsula. Its range extends through Thailand, Malaysia, and possibly into Indonesia, specifically Sumatra, Borneo, and Myanmar. The type species was collected near Palembang, Sumatra.

Their natural habitat consists of flowing streams and rivers with substrates of sand, gravel, and boulders. These waters are clear, swift-moving, and well-oxygenated, with dense plant life along the margins. The fish spend approximately half their time hiding in shelters formed by rocks, plants, and submerged logs, and the other half scouring surfaces for food. They inhabit waters that are slightly acidic to neutral, soft to moderately hard, and well-oxygenated with moderate to strong current.

Physical Characteristics

Adult Siamese Algae Eaters reach a maximum length of 6 inches (15.2 cm), though many aquarium specimens remain closer to 4 to 5 inches (10 to 12.7 cm). The body is elongated, slender, and torpedo-shaped, adapted for fast, darting swimming in current. The base coloration is olive-brown to golden, with a bold, black horizontal stripe running from the tip of the snout to the end of the tail fin. This stripe extends into the caudal fin, which is the primary diagnostic feature distinguishing true SAEs from impostors. The stripe has ragged, uneven edges rather than smooth, clean lines.

The fish possesses a single pair of small, forward-pointing barbels on the upper lip. All fins are clear and transparent without colored markings. A key anatomical feature is the underdeveloped swim bladder, which causes the fish to rest on the substrate using its pectoral and pelvic fins, with the body angled slightly upward. Sexual dimorphism is subtle; females have a broader, fuller body profile, while males are more slender and streamlined. Juveniles sold in shops are typically 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) and grow to full size within 18 to 24 months under optimal conditions.

Conservation and Trade Considerations

The species is listed as Not Evaluated by the IUCN. Virtually all specimens in the aquarium trade are wild-caught or farm-raised in Southeast Asia. The species has not established invasive populations outside its native range. The primary concern for aquarists is not conservation status but correct identification, as mislabeled specimens are the norm rather than the exception in many retail outlets.

Care

Aquarium Requirements

Siamese Algae Eaters demand more space than their small juvenile size suggests. A single individual requires a minimum 30 gallon (113 liter) tank with a footprint of at least 36 inches by 12 inches (90 cm by 30 cm). For a group of 5 or more, provide 55 gallons (208 liters) minimum with a length of 48 inches (120 cm). These are powerful, fast swimmers that dart from one end of the tank to the other instantly. Cramped quarters cause stress, reduced algae-eating behavior, and increased aggression toward tank mates.

Filtration and Water Flow

Moderate to strong water flow is essential to replicate their natural riverine habitat. Use a canister filter with a spray bar or lily pipe, or a hang-on-back filter rated for at least 6 to 8 times the tank volume per hour. Good surface agitation increases dissolved oxygen, which active fish like SAEs require. Add a sponge filter for supplemental biological filtration. Avoid stagnant water; these fish evolved in swift currents and become lethargic in still conditions.

Substrate and Hardscape

Use smooth sand or fine rounded gravel as substrate. The fish constantly graze the bottom and rest on the substrate; sharp edges injure their delicate barbels and mouth tissues. Provide driftwood, smooth rocks, and caves for hiding. The fish appreciate having ample cover along the tank perimeter with open swimming lanes in the center. Bogwood and driftwood not only provide shelter but also encourage beneficial biofilm growth that supplements their diet.

Plant Decor

Siamese Algae Eaters thrive in heavily planted tanks. Use dense plant borders along the back and sides with open swimming lanes in the front. Suitable plants include Cryptocoryne, Java Fern, Anubias, Vallisneria, and Amazon Sword. Floating plants such as Amazon Frogbit or Salvinia diffuse overhead light and create shaded retreats. The fish generally do not eat healthy aquatic plants, though they may nibble on delicate mosses or damaged leaves. Robust lighting promotes algae growth on hardscape and glass, which serves as their primary food source.

The Mandatory Lid

A tight-fitting lid is absolutely mandatory. Siamese Algae Eaters are notorious jumpers. Their fast, darting behavior can launch them out of open-top tanks or through small gaps in hoods. Use a glass canopy with all gaps sealed. Check the seal regularly, as filter vibrations can shift covers over time.

Water Parameter Stability

While Siamese Algae Eaters tolerate a broad parameter range, stability is paramount. Sudden pH swings or temperature shocks above 3 degrees Fahrenheit induce acute stress and suppress the immune system. Perform weekly water changes of 25 percent to maintain nitrates below 20 ppm. They prefer slightly cooler water; sustained temperatures above 82 degrees Fahrenheit (28 degrees Celsius) cause lethargy and reduced oxygen tolerance. In warm climates, use cooling fans or chillers during summer months.

Diet

Dietary Requirements

Siamese Algae Eaters are omnivores with a strong herbivorous preference. In the wild, they graze on aufwuchs, a complex biofilm of algae, diatoms, bacteria, and microscopic invertebrates coating submerged rocks and plant surfaces. Their most celebrated dietary trait is the consumption of black beard algae (Audouinella or Rhodochorton), a stubborn red algae that forms dark tufts on equipment, hardscape, and slow-growing plant leaves. BBA is the algae that most other algae eaters, including bristlenose plecos, otocinclus, and Amano shrimp, will not touch.

Staple Foods

Algae and biofilm should constitute the majority of their diet in a well-lit, mature aquarium. Supplement with algae wafers, spirulina tabs, and blanched vegetables including zucchini, cucumber, spinach, peas, and lettuce. Feed vegetables daily if algae growth is insufficient. Blanched vegetables provide essential fiber without the protein overload of commercial pellets.

Supplemental Foods

Offer frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, or daphnia twice weekly only. These protein sources enhance coloration and provide variety, but excessive protein causes severe internal issues and suppresses algae-eating behavior. Live foods such as mosquito larvae and daphnia stimulate natural hunting behavior. The fish will also consume detritus and leftover food from the substrate, functioning as effective scavengers.

The Critical Feeding Rule

If your primary goal is algae control, you must limit commercial food. Offer sinking pellets or wafers only 2 to 3 times per week. A hungry Siamese Algae Eater is a working algae eater. If well-fed with tasty commercial foods, they quickly lose interest in algae and become lazy grazers. This is the most common reason aquarists are disappointed with their SAE's algae-eating performance. Do not overfeed community tank mates either, as SAEs will scavenge leftovers and ignore algae.

Prohibited Foods

Never feed beef heart, pork, or other mammalian proteins. Cyprinids lack the digestive enzymes to process mammalian fats, leading to fatty liver degeneration. Avoid dried foods past their expiration date, as vitamin degradation causes deficiency disorders within weeks. Do not rely exclusively on flake foods, which disintegrate before reaching the bottom where SAEs feed.

Health

General Health and Immunity

Siamese Algae Eaters are generally hardy and resistant to most common aquarium diseases when maintained in clean, stable water with adequate filtration and oxygenation. However, their scaleless or partially scaled condition makes them sensitive to certain medications, particularly copper-based treatments, formalin, and malachite green at standard dosages. Their active metabolism and underdeveloped swim bladder also make them vulnerable to sudden parameter changes. All new specimens must undergo a 14-day quarantine in a bare-bottom hospital tank with sponge filtration and moderate water flow.

Quarantine Protocol

Quarantine all new fish for 14 days minimum. Perform a 7-day treatment with methylene blue at half strength (1.5 mg per liter) to eliminate external protozoans and fungal spores. During quarantine, train the fish to eat black beard algae by introducing BBA-covered decor and withholding commercial food for the first 5 days. This establishes algae-eating behavior that persists in the display tank. Observe for intestinal worms; treat with praziquantel if white segments are visible in feces.

Ich (White Spot Disease)

A protozoan infection caused by Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, characterized by white cysts on fins and body.

Symptoms
  • Small white salt-like granules on fins, body, and gills; rubbing against decor; rapid breathing; clamped fins; flashing against substrate.
Causes

Introduced via infected fish or plants; triggered by temperature fluctuations or stress from poor water quality and inadequate oxygenation.

Prevention & Treatment

Quarantine all new arrivals for 14 days. Maintain stable temperature between 74 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure robust filtration, surface agitation, and weekly water changes.

Velvet (Gold Dust Disease)

A parasitic infection caused by Piscinoodinium or related dinoflagellates, presenting as a fine yellow-gold dust on the body.

Symptoms
  • Yellowish gold or rust-colored dusting on body and fins; scratching against substrate; lethargy; rapid gill movement; difficulty breathing; clamped fins; loss of appetite.
Causes

Introduced via new fish or contaminated equipment; exacerbated by poor water quality, low oxygen, and stress from bright lighting or inadequate hiding places.

Prevention & Treatment

Quarantine new fish. Maintain excellent water quality with nitrates below 20 ppm. Provide adequate surface agitation and aeration. Use moderate lighting with floating plants to reduce stress.

Fin Rot and Tail Rot

A bacterial infection typically caused by Aeromonas, Pseudomonas, or Flexibacter species, attacking the fin rays and tail tissue.

Symptoms
  • Frayed or ragged fin edges; white or blackened fin margins; receding fin tissue; red streaks at fin base in advanced cases; lethargy; loss of appetite.
Causes

Poor water quality with elevated nitrates or ammonia; fin nipping from territorial disputes within the group; injury on sharp substrate or decor; stress from overcrowding.

Prevention & Treatment

Maintain weekly 25 percent water changes. Use smooth substrate and decor. Avoid overcrowding. Provide adequate swimming space to reduce intraspecific chasing.

Columnaris (Mouth Fungus)

A bacterial infection caused by Flavobacterium columnare, often mistaken for fungal growth due to its cottony appearance.

Symptoms
  • White or grayish cotton-like patches on mouth, fins, or body; frayed fins; ulcers on body; rapid breathing; loss of appetite; clamped fins; lethargy.
Causes

High organic load from uneaten food and waste; overcrowding; temperature spikes above 82 degrees Fahrenheit; stress from transport or poor acclimation.

Prevention & Treatment

Avoid overfeeding and remove uneaten food after 3 minutes. Maintain robust filtration. Perform regular gravel vacuuming to remove organic waste. Keep temperature stable between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit.

Internal Parasites (Hexamita and Nematodes)

Intestinal parasitic infections common in wild-caught or poorly quarantined specimens, leading to malnutrition and digestive issues.

Symptoms
  • Wasting despite normal appetite; stringy white feces; bloated or sunken abdomen; lethargy; faded coloration; flashing against substrate.
Causes

Introduction via infected live foods or new fish; poor quarantine protocols; overcrowded conditions facilitating parasite transmission; feeding untreated tubifex or bloodworms.

Prevention & Treatment

Quarantine all new specimens for 14 days minimum. Avoid feeding untreated live tubifex from questionable sources. Treat prophylactically with praziquantel during quarantine. Use frozen rather than live foods from unknown origins.

Barbel and Mouth Injury

Physical trauma to the sensory barbels and mouth tissues, leading to secondary bacterial or fungal infections.

Symptoms
  • Shortened or frayed barbels; reddened or swollen mouth; refusal to feed; visible abrasions around the lips; white fungal patches on damaged tissue.
Causes

Sharp or coarse gravel substrate; rough handling during netting or transport; bacterial contamination of damaged tissue; aggression from incompatible bottom-dwelling species.

Prevention & Treatment

Use only smooth sand or rounded gravel under 3 mm. Handle with soft nets only. Remove aggressive bottom feeders such as red tail sharks or flying foxes. Maintain pristine water quality to prevent secondary infection of minor injuries.

Breeding

Captive Breeding Overview

Breeding Siamese Algae Eaters in home aquariums is considered extremely difficult and has rarely been accomplished without hormonal stimulation. Commercial production relies almost exclusively on hormone-induced spawning in farms. The primary obstacles are the difficulty of sexing the fish, their need for very specific environmental triggers, and their egg-scattering behavior in open water.

Sexual Dimorphism

Distinguishing male from female Siamese Algae Eaters is challenging. Females have a broader, fuller body profile, particularly when viewed from above, while males tend to be more slender and streamlined. During breeding condition, females may appear noticeably plumper as they fill with eggs. There are no reliable color differences between the sexes. The subtle nature of these differences makes deliberate pair formation nearly impossible for hobbyists.

Spawning Triggers

In the wild, Siamese Algae Eaters breed during the rainy season when water levels rise, temperatures drop slightly, and fresh rainwater inundates the streams. To simulate these conditions in captivity, some breeders have attempted lowering the temperature to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius), performing large 50 percent water changes with cool RO water over 6 hours, and increasing water flow velocity. However, success rates remain extremely low without hormonal assistance.

Spawning Behavior and Egg Care

They are egg scatterers that release adhesive eggs over fine-leaf plants or gravel substrate. A mature female may release 1,000 to 3,000 eggs during a single spawning event. The parents exhibit no parental care and will consume the eggs if not removed. Eggs hatch in 24 to 36 hours at 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius). The fry are extremely small and require green water, infusoria, or commercially available liquid fry food for the first 5 days. After 7 to 10 days, they can transition to baby brine shrimp nauplii.

Fry Rearing

Grow-out tanks must be at least 20 gallons (75 liters) with gentle sponge filtration and dim lighting. Perform small daily water changes of 10 percent to maintain water quality without shocking the delicate fry. The fry grow slowly initially and require constant access to algae-covered surfaces or green water. Due to the extreme difficulty of breeding this species in captivity, hobbyists are strongly advised to purchase commercially bred or wild-caught specimens rather than attempting home breeding.

Tips

Expert Tips for Long-Term Success

Train Them in Quarantine

The single most effective technique for ensuring your Siamese Algae Eater eats black beard algae is to train it during quarantine. Place BBA-covered decor, rocks, or plant leaves in the quarantine tank and withhold all commercial food for the first 5 to 7 days. The hungry fish will quickly develop a taste for BBA. Once established, this feeding behavior persists when the fish is moved to the display tank. Many aquarists fail because they add the SAE directly to a well-fed community tank, where it immediately learns to scavenge fish food instead of grazing algae.

Verify Before You Buy

Misidentification is the norm, not the exception, in the aquarium trade. Before purchasing, insist on examining the fish closely. The true SAE's black stripe must extend into the tail fin and have ragged edges. The fins must be completely clear. If the shop cannot guarantee the species, do not buy. Purchasing a Flying Fox or False SAE results in a fish that not only fails to control BBA but may become aggressive toward your true SAE.

Juveniles Work Best

Young SAEs between 1.5 and 2.5 inches (3.8 to 6.5 cm) are the most effective algae grazers. They have high metabolisms, small mouths that can access tight spaces, and a strong instinct to graze constantly. As they mature, their algae-eating efficiency declines. For ongoing BBA control in a mature tank, consider rotating in younger specimens every 12 to 18 months while rehoming adults that have lost interest in algae.

Address the Root Cause

Siamese Algae Eaters are a biological control tool, not a cure. Black beard algae thrives when CO2 levels fluctuate or water circulation is poor. Use SAEs as part of a broader strategy that includes stable CO2 injection, good flow patterns, proper lighting duration, and regular water changes. If the underlying cause is not corrected, BBA will return regardless of how many SAEs you add.

Feeding Discipline

The most common mistake SAE keepers make is overfeeding the tank. When community tank mates receive generous portions of flakes, pellets, and frozen foods, the SAE abandons algae grazing in favor of easy calories. Feed the tank sparingly. Target-feed individual species with pipettes or feeding rings to ensure the SAE does not scavenge excessive leftovers. Remember the golden rule: a hungry SAE is a working SAE.

Group Size Matters

If you choose to keep multiple SAEs, maintain a group of 5 or more, or keep a single individual. Groups of 2 to 4 often develop bullying hierarchies where dominant fish chase subordinates relentlessly. In a group of 5 or more, the aggression is distributed across the group and rarely results in injury. Inadequate space exacerbates this problem; a 55 gallon (208 liter) tank is the minimum for any group attempt.

Species Comparison

FeatureSiamese Algae EaterOtocinclusChinese Algae EaterFlying Fox
Maximum Size6 inches (15.2 cm)2 inches (5 cm)11 inches (28 cm)6 inches (15.2 cm)
TemperamentPeaceful; may chase conspecificsVery peaceful; strictly schoolingAggressive; attacks other fish as adultTerritorial; aggressive toward similar species
Minimum Tank Size30 gallons (113 L); 55 gal (208 L) for groups10 gallons (38 L)55 gallons (208 L)30 gallons (113 L)
Black Beard Algae ControlExcellent; one of few fish that eats BBAPoor; does not eat BBAPoor; stops eating algae as adultNone; does not eat BBA
DietOmnivore; algae, vegetables, occasional proteinHerbivore; algae, biofilm, vegetablesOmnivore; prefers fish food over algaeOmnivore; algae, plant matter, fish food
Key IdentificationBlack stripe extends into tail; ragged edges; clear finsSmall, round body; no stripe; sucker mouthNo distinct stripe; mottled brown; sucker mouthBlack stripe to tail but smooth edges; yellow stripe above; colored fins

Frequently Asked Questions

How many Siamese Algae Eaters should be kept together?

You can keep a single specimen or a group of 5 or more individuals. Groups of 2 to 4 may result in territorial chasing as the fish mature, because a distinct hierarchy forms within the group. A single Siamese Algae Eater is perfectly content on its own and will interact with other fish in the tank. If keeping a group, provide a tank of at least 55 gallons (208 liters) with a footprint of 48 inches by 12 inches (120 cm by 30 cm). For a single fish, the absolute minimum is 30 gallons (113 liters) with a length of 36 inches (90 cm). These are active, fast swimmers that dart from one end of the tank to the other instantly. They appreciate open swimming lanes along the front and back glass, combined with dense plant borders and driftwood for retreat. Tank length must exceed 30 inches (75 cm) regardless of group size.

What are the exact water parameters for Siamese Algae Eaters?

Target the following parameters for long-term health: pH 6.5 to 8.0, General Hardness 5 to 20 dGH, Carbonate Hardness 4 to 10 dKH, Total Dissolved Solids 120 to 300 ppm, Electrical Conductivity 250 to 600 microSiemens per cm, and temperature 68 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 28 degrees Celsius). They prefer stable parameters with moderate water flow reflecting their natural riverine habitat. Maintain nitrates below 20 ppm with weekly 25 percent water changes. Use a canister filter or hang-on-back filter with adjustable flow providing 6 to 8 times turnover. Provide smooth gravel or sand substrate. Use a tight-fitting lid; they are known jumpers. Hardness below 4 dGH causes clamped fins and stress. They prefer slightly cooler water; in warm climates, a cooling fan is advisable to prevent temperatures above 82 degrees Fahrenheit (28 degrees Celsius).

What is the dietary and medication protocol for Siamese Algae Eaters?

Siamese Algae Eaters are omnivores requiring 50 percent plant matter and algae, 30 percent protein, and 20 percent vegetable fiber. Feed algae wafers, spirulina tabs, and blanched zucchini, cucumber, spinach, or peas daily. Supplement with frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp twice weekly only. The most critical feeding rule is this: if overfed with protein-rich commercial foods, they will stop eating algae entirely. A hungry Siamese Algae Eater is a working algae eater. Limit commercial pellets to 2 to 3 times per week if algae control is your primary goal. Medication alert: They are scaleless cyprinids and sensitive to copper, formalin, malachite green, and salt. Use malachite green at half the standard dose (0.05 mg per liter). Praziquantel is safe for flukes and tapeworms. Avoid salt treatments above 3 ppt. Quarantine with methylene blue at half strength. For ich outbreaks, heat treatment at 86 degrees Fahrenheit is preferable to copper-based medications.

How do I identify a true Siamese Algae Eater versus impostors?

This is the most critical question for any prospective buyer, as misidentification is rampant in the aquarium trade. You must examine the fish carefully before purchasing. The true Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus oblongus) displays a bold, black horizontal stripe running from the snout to the tip of the tail fin. The stripe extends into the caudal fin; this is the absolute key identifier. The stripe has ragged, uneven edges, not perfectly straight. The area above the black stripe is a clean olive or golden-brown without additional colored stripes. The fish has a single pair of small, forward-pointing barbels on the upper lip. All fins are clear and transparent. The fish rests on the substrate by supporting itself on its pectoral and pelvic fins, with the body angled slightly upward due to an underdeveloped swim bladder.

The Flying Fox (Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus) has a black stripe that extends to the tail tip but has smooth, clean edges. It displays a noticeable gold or yellow stripe above the black stripe. It has two pairs of barbels, more prominent than the true SAE. The fins are yellowish with orange on the caudal fin and black highlights. It is more territorial and aggressive, and critically, it does NOT eat black beard algae. The False Siamese Algae Eater or Siamese Flying Fox (Crossocheilus atrilimes) is very similar to the true SAE but has a bright, well-defined golden edge above the black stripe and a more prominent flap at the corner of the mouth. It is less effective at eating BBA. The Chinese Algae Eater (Gyrinocheilus aymonieri) lacks a distinct black stripe entirely, has a mottled brown body, no barbels, and becomes aggressive and lazy as it matures.