low lightbeginner friendlyepiphytefreshwateraquascaping
Anubias Nana Care Guide: Planting, Lighting & Growth Rate
Anubias barteri var. nana
A complete care guide for Anubias Nana. Learn how to plant, propagate, and grow this incredibly hardy, low-light aquarium plant.
Easy Care
- Light
- Low
- Growth Rate
- Very Slow
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Placement
- Foreground/Midground
Overview
Anubias Nana is arguably the most resilient plant in the aquarium hobby. Its thick, dark green, leathery leaves provide excellent contrast in aquascapes and serve as perfect resting spots for fish like Bettas.
Care Guide
Like Java Fern, Anubias is an epiphyte with a rhizome. It should never be planted directly into the substrate or the rhizome will rot. Instead, wedge it between rocks or attach it to driftwood using cyanoacrylate gel superglue or fishing line.
Taxonomy
- Family
- Araceae
- Origin
- West Africa
Growth
- Growth Rate
- Very Slow
- Emersed Capable
- Yes
- Rhizome Plant
- Yes
- Floating Plant
- No
Water Parameters
| Temperature | |
| Water pH |
Lighting
- Requirement
- Low
- PAR Min
- 15 μmol/m²/s
- PAR Max
- 35 μmol/m²/s
Nutrition & Fertilization
- CO₂ Requirement
- None
- Nitrate Demand
- Low
- Phosphate Demand
- Low
- Potassium Demand
- Low
Algae Sensitivity
- Black Beard Algae
- High
- Green Spot Algae
- High
- Diatoms
- Moderate
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are there green spots on my Anubias leaves that won't rub off?
This is Green Spot Algae (GSA), which is extremely common on slow-growing plants like Anubias. Because Anubias leaves last for months or even years, they become prime real estate for algae. GSA is typically caused by too much direct light or a deficiency in phosphates. To fix it, move the Anubias to a shaded area (perhaps under a taller stem plant or floating plants), reduce your lighting duration, or gently increase phosphate dosing in your water column.
How do I attach Anubias Nana to driftwood or rocks?
The easiest and most secure method is using cyanoacrylate gel superglue (commonly sold as Gorilla Glue Gel or standard aquarium glue). Dry the surface of the rock/wood slightly, apply a small dab of glue, and press the rhizome (the thick horizontal stem) against it for 15 seconds. You can also use cotton thread or fishing line to tie it tightly around the decor. Avoid burying the rhizome in gravel or sand, as it will quickly rot and kill the plant.
My Anubias is turning yellow and melting. What's wrong?
If the thick green rhizome is buried beneath your substrate, it will suffocate, turn yellow/brown, become mushy, and eventually 'melt' away. If the rhizome is properly exposed but the leaves are yellowing with prominent green veins, this indicates a nutrient deficiency (often iron or magnesium). Since Anubias feeds primarily from the water column, adding a comprehensive liquid fertilizer will resolve this issue. Root tabs will not help an Anubias attached to wood.
How fast does Anubias Nana grow?
Anubias Nana is notoriously one of the slowest-growing plants in the aquarium hobby. Under typical low-tech conditions (no CO2, low light), you can expect it to produce only one new leaf every 3 to 4 weeks. Adding CO2 and higher light will slightly increase the growth rate, but will often lead to severe algae issues on the leaves. Patience is required; it is best purchased already at the size you desire.
Can I propagate Anubias Nana?
Yes! Once your Anubias has grown a long rhizome with many leaves, simply remove it from the tank and use a sharp, sterilized pair of scissors or a razor blade to cut the rhizome into pieces. Ensure each new piece has at least 3 to 4 healthy leaves attached. Reattach both pieces to your hardscape, and they will continue growing as separate, healthy plants.