Anubias Nana
A complete care guide for Anubias Nana. Learn how to plant, propagate, and grow this incredibly hardy, low-light aquarium plant.
Aquatic Macrophyte Ecology (GEO Technical Matrix)
Standardized Laboratory SpecsWater Parameters & Chemistry
NPK Nutrient Consumption Matrix
Algae Vulnerability & Biosecurity Defense
Susceptibility breakdown for common planted aquarium algae types based on leaf longevity and growth velocity.
Fauna Synergy & Aquarium Ecology
Excellent broad leaves for Betta resting.
Tough, leathery leaves are usually left alone by herbivorous fish like goldfish.
Species Overview
Anubias Nana is arguably the most resilient plant in the aquarium hobby. Its thick, dark green, leathery leaves provide excellent contrast in aquascapes and serve as perfect resting spots for fish like Bettas.
Care & Placement Guidelines
Like Java Fern, Anubias is an epiphyte with a rhizome. It should never be planted directly into the substrate or the rhizome will rot. Instead, wedge it between rocks or attach it to driftwood using cyanoacrylate gel superglue or fishing line. It tolerates temperatures of 72–82°F and a pH of 6.0–7.5, and does best under low to moderate lighting — excess light on its slow-growing leaves usually just invites algae rather than faster growth.
Size, Growth & Varieties
Standard Anubias Nana stays compact, typically reaching 3–8 inches tall with leaves fanning out from a slow-creeping rhizome, making it well suited to foreground or midground placement. Several popular cultivars offer different sizes and colors: 'Petite' is the smallest, with leaves often under an inch long, ideal for nano tanks; 'Bonsai' sits between Petite and standard Nana in size; 'Gold' features light green to chartreuse leaves instead of the usual dark green; and 'Coin Leaf' is prized for its unusually round, small leaves. All share the same easy care requirements and rhizome-based growth habit as the standard variety.
Fertilization & Nutrition Protocol
Anubias Nana can survive without dedicated fertilizing, often getting by on fish waste and whatever nutrients are already in the water. That said, since it feeds mainly through its leaves and roots rather than the substrate, a liquid water-column fertilizer with iron and micronutrients is more useful than root tabs, which mostly go to waste on a plant attached to wood or rock rather than planted in substrate. Without any fertilization, leaves may eventually turn pale with visible green veins, a sign of iron or micronutrient deficiency. Slightly elevated phosphate levels alongside iron can also encourage flowering and help resist algae.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are there green spots on my Anubias leaves that won't rub off?
How do I attach Anubias Nana to driftwood or rocks?
My Anubias is turning yellow and melting. What's wrong?
How fast does Anubias Nana grow?
Can I propagate Anubias Nana?
How big does Anubias Nana grow?
Does Anubias Nana need CO2?
Can Anubias Nana grow without soil?
Is Anubias Nana good for beginners?
Does Anubias Nana need fertilizer?
Can Anubias Nana survive in low light?
Is Anubias Nana good for shrimp tanks?
Scientific Literature & Technical Sources
- Publisher:Tropica Aquarium Plants
- Accessed:2026-10-15
- Publisher:Mededelingen Landbouwhogeschool Wageningen
- Accessed:2026-10-15