Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum)

FreshwaterOsteoglossidae Familyaggressiveadvanced Care
Silver Arowana

Quick Answer

Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) is a large, ancient bony-tongued fish from the Amazon River Basin. It requires a minimum 250-gallon (946-liter) aquarium with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 and a temperature range of 75°F to 82°F (24°C to 28°C). As an obligate carnivore with aggressive tendencies, it must be housed alone or with carefully selected large tank mates. Not suitable for beginners.

Lifespan 15 years
Max Size 36 in (91 cm)
Difficulty advanced
Diet Carnivore

Quick Facts

Scientific Name Osteoglossum bicirrhosum
Common Names Silver Arowana
Family Osteoglossidae
Genus Osteoglossum
Type Freshwater
Temperament aggressive
Care Difficulty advanced
Lifespan 15 years
Maximum Size Up to 36 in (91 cm)
Diet Carnivore
Temperature 75–82°F (24–28°C)
pH 6–7
Hardness 2–8 dGH
Minimum Size 250 gallons

Key Takeaways

  • Requires minimum 250 gallons with 8-foot length and 30-inch width.
  • Obligate carnivore - floating pellets, krill, and silversides are ideal.
  • Highly prone to Drop Eye - prevention through lean diet is essential.
  • Notorious jumper - weighted, gap-free lid is mandatory.
  • Keep only one per tank - fatal aggression between adults.
  • Highly nitrate-sensitive - maintain under 10 ppm at all times.
  • Growth rate of 2 inches per month in year one - plan tank size before purchase.

Overview

Species Overview

The Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) is one of the most iconic and consistently mis-sold fish in the aquarium hobby. A member of the ancient bony-tongued family Osteoglossidae, this species traces its lineage back over 150 million years. In the wild, Silver Arowanas inhabit the slow backwaters, flooded forests (varzea), and oxbow lakes of the Amazon and Essequibo river basins across Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Guyana, Suriname, and French Guiana.

The Water Dragon Morphology

The Silver Arowana's body plan is purpose-built for surface ambush predation. The mouth tilts almost vertically upward, forming a near-90-degree hinge that opens like a drawbridge. A pair of fleshy barbels extends from the lower jaw, serving as sensory organs that detect surface vibrations and movement of prey on or just above the waterline. The dorsal and anal fins fuse into a long, continuous ribbon along the rear two-thirds of the body, propelling the fish with the slow, sinuous undulation that earned it the Water Dragon nickname.

Their iridescent silver scales are among the largest of any freshwater fish, arranged in a mosaic that catches light from below as the fish patrols the surface. Juveniles carry a yellow-orange tag near the anal fin, a vestige of the yolk sac, which fades by the time the fish reaches approximately 8 inches (20 cm).

Natural Habitat and Behavior

During the wet season, when river levels rise 30 feet (9 meters) or more, arowanas swim into the flooded jungle and hunt insects, spiders, frogs, and small vertebrates among submerged tree branches. Their famous jumping ability is not a quirk; it is a primary feeding strategy. Documented leaps of 6 feet (1.8 meters) out of the water to snatch beetles or roosting birds are routine in the wild.

Native water is soft, warm (78°F to 86°F or 25.5°C to 30°C seasonally), and stained brown by tannins. pH typically sits between 5.5 and 6.8. While you do not need to recreate blackwater conditions in captivity, the fish is built for warm, soft, slightly acidic water and is unforgiving of high-pH, hard-water swings that accompany neglected large-tank water changes.

Diet

Diet and Feeding Strategy

Silver Arowanas are obligate carnivores with one of the most specialized feeding niches in the aquarium hobby: surface-only predation. Anything that sinks past the first few inches is generally ignored. You must train your fish on floating foods early.

Health

Health and Disease Management

Most arowana health problems trace back to two root causes: tank dimensions that are too small, and a diet too heavy on fatty live foods. Get those two right and the species is surprisingly hardy. Get them wrong and you will spend years fighting Drop Eye, spinal curvature, and recurring head trauma.

Drop Eye (Ptosis)

The signature ailment of captive arowanas where the eyeball rotates downward in the socket, leaving a permanent downward stare. Almost never reversible once established.

Symptoms
  • One or both eyes rotated downward in the socket, asymmetrical gaze, visible fatty deposits behind the eyeball in advanced cases.
Causes

Excess body fat from high-fat diets (goldfish, beef heart, overfeeding), constant downward gaze from bottom-dwelling tank mates or sinking food, genetic predisposition in some specimens.

Prevention & Treatment

Feed exclusively floating foods at the surface, maintain lean high-protein diet, provide surface-level visual enrichment, keep nitrates under 10 ppm, feed adults once daily only.

Jump Injuries and Head Trauma

A spooked arowana strikes the lid hard enough to bruise the rostral region, dislodge scales, and in worst cases break its spine.

Symptoms
  • Bruising around the snout and head, missing scales, bent or damaged barbels, lethargy, refusal to eat, spinal curvature in severe cases.
Causes

Inadequate lid weight, sudden movements near the tank, bright reflections off glass canopies, inconsistent lighting, harassment from tank mates.

Prevention & Treatment

Use weighted polycarbonate or acrylic lids secured with cinder blocks or dive weights, approach the tank slowly, maintain consistent room lighting, avoid sharp reflections, diagnose and remove harassment triggers.

Barbel Erosion and Loss

Damage to the sensitive barbels from abrasion, poor water quality, or bacterial infection. Barbels are critical sensory organs for surface hunting.

Symptoms
  • Shortened, curled, or missing barbels, reddened tissue at the barbel base, reluctance to feed at the surface, repeated scraping against tank walls.
Causes

Tank width insufficient for turning, sharp decor, chronic exposure to nitrates above 20 ppm, bacterial infection secondary to physical trauma.

Prevention & Treatment

Provide minimum 30-inch tank width, use only smooth decor, maintain nitrates under 10 ppm, treat water with antibacterial agents if infection is suspected.

Ammonia Burn and Nitrate Sensitivity

Adult arowanas in undersized or under-filtered tanks show fin erosion, mucus stripping, and reddened gill plates from chronic exposure to nitrogenous waste.

Symptoms
  • Fin erosion and fraying, excess mucus production, reddened gill plates, rapid breathing, lethargy, loss of appetite, clamped fins.
Causes

Inadequate filtration for bioload, infrequent water changes, overstocking, failure to cycle the tank properly before adding the fish.

Prevention & Treatment

Use sump or stacked canister filtration with 8x to 10x turnover, conduct weekly 40% to 50% water changes, test water parameters weekly, maintain nitrates under 10 ppm, ensure zero ammonia and nitrite at all times.

Internal Parasites

Common in wild-caught specimens and fish fed live feeders from pet store tanks. Can cause chronic weight loss and digestive issues.

Symptoms
  • Weight loss despite normal feeding, stringy white feces, bloating, lethargy, reduced growth rate, visible worms in feces in severe cases.
Causes

Feeding live feeder fish from untrusted sources, wild-caught specimens carrying endemic parasites, cross-contamination from new tank mates.

Prevention & Treatment

Never feed pet-store feeder fish, quarantine all new specimens for 4 weeks, use praziquantel as a prophylactic dewormer at 2.5 mg/L for 3 days, maintain pristine water quality to support immune function.

Fatty Liver Disease (Hepatic Lipidosis)

Obesity-driven liver dysfunction caused by overfeeding and high-fat diets. A primary contributor to Drop Eye and shortened lifespan.

Symptoms
  • Distended abdomen, lethargy, loss of appetite in advanced stages, pale feces, downward eye rotation (Drop Eye), reduced activity.
Causes

Overfeeding, diets heavy in goldfish or beef heart, lack of exercise in cramped tanks, genetic predisposition.

Prevention & Treatment

Feed adults once daily or every other day, use lean floating pellets as the dietary staple, avoid goldfish and beef heart entirely, provide adequate swimming space for exercise.

Breeding

Breeding Silver Arowanas in Captivity

Breeding Silver Arowanas in captivity is extremely rare and requires facilities far beyond the reach of home aquarists. This section covers the biological facts for educational purposes and conservation awareness.

Species Comparison

FeatureSilver ArowanaAsian ArowanaBlack ArowanaJardini Arowana
Maximum Size36 inches (91 cm)24 to 32 inches (61 to 81 cm)36 inches (91 cm)24 inches (61 cm)
TemperamentAggressive predator, solitaryTerritorial but calmerAggressive, less prone to Drop EyeHighly aggressive, genuinely nasty
Minimum Tank Size250 gallons (946 L), 8 ft length200 gallons (757 L)250 gallons (946 L)180 gallons (681 L)
DietFloating carnivore pellets, krill, silversidesHigh-quality pellets, live food, insectsCarnivore pellets, whole prey, insectsCarnivore pellets, crustaceans, fish
pH Range6.0 to 7.06.5 to 7.56.0 to 7.06.5 to 7.5
Drop Eye PronenessHigh - primary health concernModerateLow - rarely developsModerate
Price Range (Juvenile)$30 to $80 USD$300 to $3,000+ USD$150 to $400 USD$100 to $300 USD

Frequently Asked Questions

How many Silver Arowanas can be kept together in one aquarium?

You must keep only one Silver Arowana per aquarium under virtually all circumstances. These fish are solitary, highly territorial surface predators that will fight to the death when housed together. Even in massive custom systems exceeding 500 gallons, two adult Silver Arowanas will establish a fatal dominance hierarchy. A single specimen requires a minimum tank footprint of 96 inches by 30 inches (240 cm by 75 cm) with at least 250 gallons (946 liters) of water volume. Attempting to house multiple individuals is one of the most common and catastrophic mistakes made by inexperienced keepers.

The only exception is temporary juvenile grouping in tanks of 180+ gallons with 4-6 inch specimens, but even then, separation must occur before 12 inches of growth.

What are the exact water parameters for maintaining a healthy Silver Arowana?

Silver Arowanas demand pristine, stable water conditions. Your target parameters are:

  • Temperature: 75°F to 82°F (24°C to 28°C), with 78°F to 80°F (25.5°C to 26.5°C) as the optimal year-round range.
  • pH: 6.0 to 7.0, with 6.2 to 6.8 being ideal for color and longevity.
  • General Hardness (GH): 2 to 8 dGH (soft to moderately soft water).
  • Carbonate Hardness (KH): 2 to 6 dKH.
  • Total Dissolved Solids (TDS): 80 to 200 ppm.
  • Nitrates: Under 10 ppm at all times. Adult arowanas are highly nitrate-sensitive.
  • Ammonia and Nitrite: 0 ppm, always.

Conduct weekly water changes of 40% to 50% minimum. Use a sump system or stacked canister filters providing 8x to 10x tank turnover per hour. Surface agitation is critical for gas exchange, as these fish breathe at the surface.

What is the proper diet and medication protocol for Silver Arowanas?

Silver Arowanas are obligate carnivores requiring 65% protein, 15% fat, and 20% plant matter in their diet. The staple must be high-quality floating carnivore pellets such as Hikari Massivore, New Life Spectrum Thera+A Large, or Saki-Hikari Carnivore. Supplement with frozen krill, silversides, smelt, and gut-loaded earthworms.

Critical warnings:

  • Never feed feeder goldfish. They carry parasites, contain thiaminase (which destroys vitamin B1), and their high fat content drives fatty liver disease and Drop Eye.
  • Never feed beef heart. It is excessively fatty and a primary cause of obesity-related health issues.
  • Juveniles (under 12 inches) should be fed 2 to 3 times daily. Adults require feeding once daily or every other day to prevent obesity.

Medication protocol: Silver Arowanas tolerate copper sulfate at 0.15 mg/L but are sensitive to formalin. Praziquantel is safe for deworming. Salt baths up to 5 ppt treat external parasites effectively. For internal bacterial infections, metronidazole at 5 mg/L for 14 days is the standard protocol. Always quarantine new food sources.

How do you prevent and treat Drop Eye in Silver Arowanas?

Drop Eye (ptosis) is the signature ailment of captive Silver Arowanas and is almost never reversible once established. Prevention is the only viable strategy.

Causes of Drop Eye

  • Excess body fat: Fatty deposits behind the eyeball push it downward. High-fat diets including goldfish, beef heart, and overfeeding are the primary culprits.
  • Constant downward gaze: Fish housed with only bottom-dwelling tank mates or fed sinking food develop muscle patterns that pull the eye downward.
  • Genetics: Some specimens are predisposed regardless of care quality.

Prevention Protocol

  • Feed exclusively floating foods at the surface.
  • Maintain a lean, high-protein diet with minimal fat.
  • Provide visual enrichment at the surface level, such as floating plants or driftwood.
  • Keep nitrates under 10 ppm through rigorous water changes.
  • Avoid obesity by feeding adults only once daily.

There is no proven medical cure for established Drop Eye. Surgical correction exists but is extremely risky and rarely performed successfully.