Horseface Loach (Acantopsis choirorhynchos)

Safe tank mates are peaceful, mid-water to upper-water column species that do not compete for bottom territory. Excellent choices include small to medium tetras (Neon, Cardinal, Ember, Black Neon), rasboras (Harlequin, Galaxy, Scissortail), danios (Zebra, Giant, Pearl), peaceful barbs (Cherry, Rosy, Odessa), gouramis (Pearl, Honey, Dwarf), and other peaceful loaches such as Kuhli Loaches, Dwarf Chain Loaches, and small Botia species. Avoid all aggressive or territorial bottom-dwellers including Red Tail Sharks, Rainbow Sharks, Flying Foxes, large cichlids (Oscar, Jack Dempsey, Texas Cichlid), and territorial catfish such as Synodontis. Avoid large, boisterous fish that may startle buried loaches, causing them to dart and injure themselves. Avoid fin-nipping species such as Tiger Barbs unless kept in massive schools of 12 or more. Small shrimp such as Cherry Shrimp and Amano Shrimp are generally safe in planted tanks but may be consumed if they wander too close to a buried loach's snout. Adult Horseface Loaches are too large to be preyed upon by most community fish but may be harassed by semi-aggressive species.

Horseface Loaches are predominantly nocturnal and fossorial, meaning they are adapted to burrow and hide during daylight hours. This is completely normal behavior, not a sign of illness or stress. During the day, they bury themselves completely in the sand with only their eyes protruding to monitor the surroundings for predators. They may remain motionless in this position for 8 to 12 hours. To observe them, install a dim blue or red moonlight LED that activates when the main lights turn off. Within 30 minutes of darkness, they will emerge from the substrate and begin active foraging. You can also encourage daytime visibility by adding floating plants to diffuse overhead lighting, providing numerous caves and driftwood tunnels, and keeping the tank in a low-traffic area of the home. Sudden light changes, loud noises, or tapping on the glass will cause them to bolt and rebury instantly. Patience is essential; over time, in a stable, low-stress environment, some individuals become bold enough to emerge briefly during subdued daylight periods.

Horseface Loaches are susceptible to ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis), skin and gill flukes (Dactylogyrus and Gyrodactylus), bacterial fin rot, and stress-related immune collapse. Because they are scaleless or possess extremely small embedded scales, they are highly medication-sensitive. Never use copper-based treatments; copper is lethal to loaches at concentrations above 0.05 mg/L. Avoid formalin entirely, as it causes severe gill damage. Treat ich using the heat-only method: raise temperature to 86°F (30°C) for 72 hours with increased surface agitation. If chemical treatment is unavoidable, use malachite green at quarter-strength (0.025 mg/L) or quinine sulfate. Praziquantel is safe for flukes at 2.5 mg/L. Metronidazole at half-strength is safe for internal parasites and bacterial infections. Avoid salt; loaches have poor salt tolerance and concentrations above 2 ppt cause osmotic stress. Prevent disease by maintaining nitrates below 15 ppm, performing weekly water changes, feeding a varied diet, and quarantining new stock for 14 days. Always use a hospital tank for medication to protect the main tank's biological filter and monitor for adverse reactions.

No. Horseface Loaches have never been successfully bred in captivity by hobbyists or commercial breeders. All specimens available in the aquarium trade are wild-caught, which contributes to their intermediate care difficulty and higher price point compared to captive-bred species. The reasons for breeding failure include their nocturnal spawning habits, specific seasonal triggers tied to monsoon flooding, and the lack of documented reproductive behavior in aquarium conditions. Theoretical breeding would require a massive tank of 75 gallons (284 liters) or larger, a group of 5 to 6 mature adults, deep sand substrate, and simulation of rainy season conditions by lowering water level to 6 inches (15 cm) for 2 weeks followed by a 60% water change with cool, soft reverse-osmosis water. Even with these measures, spawning has not been reliably achieved. Hobbyists should not attempt breeding and should instead focus on providing excellent care for wild-caught specimens. Purchase from reputable dealers who source sustainably and avoid specimens showing signs of capture stress such as damaged barbels, torn fins, or emaciation.